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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a process for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said fibers a composition (A) containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents and a step of irradiating said fibers with UV-Visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 to 5000 J / cm 2, after application of said composition (A); when the process is a process for staining keratin fibers, one or more oxidation dyes is or are also used.
    公开号:FR3020569A1
    申请号:FR1453963
    申请日:2014-04-30
    公开日:2015-11-06
    发明作者:Gabin Vic；Frederic Woodland；Fabrice Osolin
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to a process for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of bleaching or coloring the keratin fibers using an oxidizing composition and a UV-Visible radiation. applying to said fibers a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents followed by a step of irradiating said fibers with UV-Visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 to 5000 J / cm 2, after application of said composition, it being understood that when the process according to the invention is a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, one or more oxidation dyes is or are furthermore used. The invention relates to the technical field of the bleaching and staining of keratinous fibers, particularly in the field of bleaching and hair coloring. The bleaching or lightening of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, is by oxidation of the pigment "melanin" resulting in the solubilization and the partial or total elimination of this pigment.
    [0002] The processes for lightening or decolouring human keratin fibers generally consist in applying an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the particular role of degrading the melanin of keratinous fibers, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, it is customary to use peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, it is known to dye keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair to obtain so-called permanent dyes with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
    [0003] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-aminophenols and meta-aminophenols. diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole or pyridine compounds. The variety of molecules involved in oxidation bases and couplers, allows to obtain a rich palette of colors. Conventional oxidation dyeing processes generally consist in applying to the keratin fibers a dye composition comprising oxidation bases or a mixture of oxidation bases and couplers with hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 or hydrogen peroxide) with as an oxidizing agent, to let diffuse and then rinse said fibers. The resulting colorations are generally permanent, strong, and resistant to external agents, including light, weather, washing, perspiration and rubbing. The lightening and coloring processes described in the prior art most often have the disadvantage of including steps whose implementation times are quite long.
    [0004] For example, a lightening process may comprise a step of laying the oxidizing composition of up to 50 minutes to which it is generally necessary to add the necessary time associated with the application of said composition. In other words, the application times and the exposure times of the compositions employed during such lightening and coloring processes are fairly important, which can make their implementation tedious for the user and / or the hairdresser. Such lightening and coloring processes also have the disadvantage of using compositions with relatively high concentrations of active substances such as alkaline agents, oxidizing agents and / or dyes which can make these processes expensive. In addition, conventional lightening processes have the disadvantage of modifying the natural shade of keratin fibers during their discoloration, which most often results in the appearance of an unsightly orange background. To this end, we seek to develop lightening processes that are more respectful of the natural nuances of keratin fibers.
    [0005] Conventional lightening processes also have the disadvantage of impairing the integrity of the keratin fibers, which can result in adverse cosmetic properties. In addition, fading processes employing a light source are already known from the prior art.
    [0006] Indeed, US Pat. No. 4,792,341 describes a fading process comprising an irradiation step implemented by means of a laser or a flash lamp. The patent application WO 91/06279 describes a photochemical bleaching process using a composition containing from 0.5 to 5% by weight of a photosensitizer and a compound that can release a hydrogen radical. Finally, the patent application WO2007 / 048473 describes a staining or bleaching process using an irradiation step by means of UV radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 to 600 nm or with particular irradiation. These documents do not describe efficient staining or bleaching processes which involve a step of irradiation with UV-Visible radiation having a particular fluency range. There is therefore a real need to develop processes for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say which are faster to implement and using compositions whose active concentrations, especially oxidizing agents and / or oxidation dyes or alkaline agents, are lower while being able to meet the natural nuances and integrity of the fibers keratin. This object is achieved by the present invention, which relates in particular to a process for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising: (i) a step of applying to said fibers of a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents, and (ii) a step of irradiating said fibers with UV-Visible radiation having a wavelength of from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence of from 1 to 5000 J / cm 2 after application of said composition, it being understood that when the process according to the invention is a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, then said method furthermore uses one or more oxidation dyes. In other words, the process according to the invention successively implements a step of applying a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents and a step of irradiating the fibers as described above. The bleaching or staining process according to the invention makes it possible, respectively, to lighten or color the fibers more rapidly than conventional processes by virtue of the implementation of an irradiation step as described above. In other words, the irradiation step advantageously reduces the exposure time required for the oxidizing composition to lighten or effectively stain the keratinous fibers. In particular, such a laying time may have a duration of less than 60 minutes, which corresponds to the irradiation time of the fibers. As a result, the method according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the treatment time of keratinous fibers, which makes it easier to implement.
    [0007] Furthermore, it is observed that the method according to the invention can lead to a strong discoloration of more than 5 pitches (HT) in less than 15 minutes. In addition, the process according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the amounts of active agents of the invention such as oxidizing agents, and / or dyes, and / or alkalinizing agents. Advantageously, the irradiation step is carried out by means of an electroluminescent source which renders the process according to the invention more efficient. In particular, the electroluminescent source makes it possible to lead to a lightening equivalent to that obtained with a non-electroluminescent light source in a more rapid manner. The use of the electroluminescent source is advantageous because this source has a small footprint, low power consumption, higher irradiance and longer life than a filament or arc lamp. In addition, the electroluminescent source makes it possible to release little heat towards the irradiation zone. Moreover, when the method according to the invention is a coloring process, the latter leads in particular to powerful, chromatic and / or low selective coloring, that is to say to colorings that are homogeneous along the fiber . In parallel, when the process according to the invention is a bleaching process, the latter leads to improved lightening performance while being able to better respect the natural shade and the integrity of the keratinous fibers that the processes of lightening the art. prior. Indeed, it is found that the keratin fibers treated with the lightening process according to the invention do not have a lightening background as orange as the fibers treated with the lightening processes of the prior art. In other words, the lightening process according to the invention makes it possible to lead to reflections or more natural and aesthetic shades.
    [0008] The present invention also relates to a process for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair comprising: (i) a step of applying to said fibers a composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents (ii) a step of irradiating the keratinous fibers with one or more diodes after application of said composition, when the process is a process and a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, then said process also uses one or more dyes for 'oxidation.
    [0009] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field.
    [0010] The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair. The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". For the purposes of the present invention, the term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent that is different from the oxygen in the air. The chemical oxidizing agent (s) may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates and alkali metal or alkaline metal percarbonates. earthy, as well as peracids and their precursors. Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide and peroxygenated salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metal persulfates, such as potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, persulfate and the like. ammonium and their mixtures. More preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
    [0011] The oxidizing agent may be present in the oxidizing composition in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. oxidizing. As indicated above, in the case of the implementation of a dyeing process, the process also uses one or more oxidation dyes. In other words, one or more oxidation dyes are used during said process. The oxidation dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers. Preferably, the oxidation dyes comprise at least one oxidation base and at least one coupler. By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among the paraphenylenediamines, there may be mentioned by way of example, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloroparaphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, , 5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis (- ((3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-chloroaniline) , 2-13-hydroxyethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N - ((3-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl 3-methyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenyl enylenediamine, N - ((3,7-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, N - ((3-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their salts; addition with an acid.
    [0012] Of the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their salts acid addition are particularly preferred.
    [0013] Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, mention may be made, for example, of N, N-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino propanol, NJ P-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, P-bis- ( 3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N ' -bis- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.
    [0014] Among para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - ( 3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid Among the ortho-aminophenols, there may be mentioned, by way of example, 2-amino phenol, 2- amino-5-methyl phenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-amino phenol, and their addition salts Amongst the heterocyclic bases, mention may be made by way of example, pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
    [0015] Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts. Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-4-pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. A for example, there may be mentioned 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine, pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol 2 - [(3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a]) pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; as well as their addition salts. Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists.
    [0016] Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 as the 4.5 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-yl-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino diamino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-Benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5 - diamino 1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4 5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. It is also possible to use 4- (5-diamino) -3-methoxyethyl) pyrazole. Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or one of its salts will be used as pyrazole derivatives. also mentioned diamino N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in application FR-A-2,886,136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino 3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl -1,2-Dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3 - ( 2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [ 1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidone); 1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5- (3-dimethylamino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3 -one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one. It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof. As heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-1- (13-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] will be used preferentially. pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof Preferably, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis-03-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 1-methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, para-aminophenol, 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate, 2,3-diaminodihydroxypyrazolone dimethosulfonate, 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine, their addition salts and mixtures thereof. The coupler or couplers are advantageously chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers.
    [0017] Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. By way of example, mention may be made of 2-methyl-5-amino phenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-N-03-hydroxyethypamino-2-methylphenol, and 3-amino-phenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1- (B-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino-4- (B-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole , 2-amino-3-hydroxy pyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (B-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylene dioxybenzene, , 6-bis- (13-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-methylpyrazole-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methyl hyl pyrazole 5-one, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1,2,4-triazole 6-methyl pyrazolo [1,5-4-benzimidazole, their acid addition salts, and mixtures thereof. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. Preferably, the coupler or couplers are chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl-resorcinol, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-4- (4-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 5-N - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methyl-phenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 1-B-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene dihydrochloride, 3-amino-phenol, addition salts and mixtures thereof The oxidation base (s) and optionally the coupler (s) may advantageously represent from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
    [0018] Preferably, the oxidizing composition further comprises one or more basifying agents. The basifying agent (s) may be inorganic or organic or hybrid. The inorganic alkalinizing agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, or mixtures thereof. The organic basifying agent (s) are preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty chain, alkyl or alkenyl, comprising more than ten carbon atoms. The organic basifying agent (s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylene diamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (AII): ## STR2 ## wherein W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O or NRu; Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt, R 'and the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl. Examples of amines of formula (II) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diaminopropanol, spermine and spermidine. By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
    [0019] In particular, the organic amines chosen from alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are suitable in particular for carrying out the invention. Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and triisopropanolamine. 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane. More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form. As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine and cysteine. , glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
    [0020] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (AIII): embedded image in which formula (AIII) in which R represents a group chosen from: NH - (CH 2) 3NH 2 - (CH 2) 2 NH 2; - (CH2) 2NHCONH2; and - (CH 2) 2 NH-C-NH 2 NH The compounds corresponding to formula (AIII) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline. The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made, in particular, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, carnosine, anserine and balenine may be mentioned in particular. The organic amine may also be selected from compounds having a guanidine function. As organic amines of this type which can be used in the present invention, mention may in addition be made of the arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine and the like. , glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1-acid sulfonic acid.
    [0021] As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid and hydrochloric acid. In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used. Preferably, the alkalinizing agent (s) present in the oxidizing composition are chosen from ammonia and alkanolamines. Even more preferentially, the basifying agent is ammonia or monoethanolamine. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of alkalinizing agent (s) ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
    [0022] Preferably, the oxidizing composition is aqueous. In particular, the oxidizing composition is an aqueous composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents and one or more basifying agents. The composition may optionally comprise one or more solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition, and preferably ranging from 5 to 30% by weight. The oxidizing composition may also comprise one or more adjuvants conventionally used in the compositions for bleaching or coloring fibers, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, with in particular the anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners different from the polymers mentioned above; anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric surfactants, antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The oxidizing composition may be in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel. Advantageously, the oxidizing composition does not exhibit a chemical absorption peak in the wavelength range used for the irradiation step so as to limit the heating of the oxidizing composition during said irradiation. The oxidizing composition can be obtained by mixing at least two compositions. In particular, the oxidizing composition may result from mixing a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents and a composition containing one or more alkaline agents. More particularly, the oxidizing composition may result from mixing a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents and a composition containing one or more alkaline agents and / or one or more oxidation dyes. Indeed, when the process according to the invention is a staining process, the oxidizing composition can result from mixing a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents and a composition containing one or more alkaline agents and one or more dyes. As mentioned above, the invention also relates to a process for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair comprising: (i) a step of applying to said fibers of a composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) a step of irradiating the keratinous fibers with one or more diodes after application of said composition, when the process is a method for dyeing keratin fibers, then one or more dyes oxidation is or are also used. As indicated above, the method according to the invention comprises a step of irradiating the keratinous fibers by means of UV-Visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 to 5000 J / cm2 after application of said composition. Preferably, 90% of the radiation energy emitted by the irradiation source is between 200 and 800 nm. More preferably, 95% of the energy of the radiation emitted by the irradiation source is between 200 and 800 nm.
    [0023] In a preferred variant of the invention, the light source emits so-called monochromatic radiation, that is to say centered on a given wavelength with a very small dispersion of the energy emitted outside a range of ± 10 nanometers with respect to said wavelength.
    [0024] Preferably, the UV-Visible radiation has a wavelength ranging from 300 to 600 nm and particularly ranging from 350 to 450 nm. More particularly, the UV-Visible radiation has a wavelength of 365 nm, 385 nm or 405 nm (± 10 nanometers).
    [0025] Preferably, the fluence of the UV-Visible radiation varies from 50 to 2000 J / cm 2, especially from 100 to 2000 J / cm 2, particularly from 200 to 1000 J / cm 2. Advantageously, the irradiation step of the method according to the invention is carried out from one or more light sources, preferably one or more electroluminescent sources. More advantageously, the UV-Visible radiation is emitted by one or more electroluminescent sources composed of one or more electroluminescent elements such as light-emitting diodes (LED) or organoelectroluminescent diodes (OLED).
    [0026] The electroluminescent source may be chosen from light emitting diodes (LEDs) or organoelectroluminescent diodes (OLEDs). In other words, the irradiation step is carried out by one or more electroluminescent sources, which effectively reduces the process time of the process. Preferably, the irradiation source may be composed of one or more light-emitting diodes. The diodes still have the advantage of being easier to miniaturize and more energetic. The diodes also make it possible to reduce the irradiation time for a given fluence. In particular, the irradiation source used in the process according to the invention is a UVA LED lightnincure model LCL5 365 nm, sold by Hamamatsu.
    [0027] The UV-Visible radiation may be continuous or pulsed at a pulse frequency ranging from 0.001 to 1000 Hz and preferably ranging from 0.01 to 100 Hz. In one variant of the invention, the irradiance of the radiation emitted by the or the sources is greater than or equal to 50 mWatt / cm2 on the treated substrate. Preferably, the keratinous fibers, once treated with the oxidizing composition, are irradiated for a period of less than 60 minutes, in particular for a duration of less than 50 minutes, in particular for a duration of less than 20 minutes, and more preferably for a period of time. ranging from 1 to 15 minutes. Preferably, the method according to the invention further comprises a step of rinsing the oxidizing composition after the irradiation step. According to a variant of the invention, the oxidizing composition is applied to a portion of the surface of the keratin fibers and then, in a second step, said partial or total surface is then irradiated with UV-Visible radiation as defined above. According to another variant of the invention, the oxidizing composition is applied to the entire surface of the keratinous fibers and then, in a second step, the entire surface is irradiated with UV-Visible radiation as defined above. . According to a third variant of the invention, the oxidizing composition is applied to the entire surface of the keratinous fibers and then, in a second step, a part of said surface is irradiated (part of the surface that can be predefined) by radiation. UV-Visible as defined previously. Such an embodiment makes it possible to create thinned and / or colored patterns on the surface of the keratinous fibers.
    [0028] According to another embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises a step of applying to the keratinous fibers an oxidizing composition and a step of irradiating said fibers with UV-Visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 to 5000 J / cm 2, emitted by one or more electroluminescent sources, after application of said composition. Preferably, in this embodiment, the oxidizing composition is aqueous. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. According to this embodiment, the aqueous oxidizing composition may further comprise one or more alkalinizing agents. According to these embodiments, the UV-Visible radiation has a wavelength of 350 to 450 nm, in particular 365 nm, 385 nm or 405 nm (± 10 nanometers). According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention is a process for bleaching keratinous fibers. According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention is a method for dyeing keratinous fibers. Preferably, when the method according to the invention using diode is a method for staining keratinous fibers, the composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents also comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
    [0029] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.
    [0030] In the following examples, the keratinous fibers used are hair having a pitch equal to 6 (HT6), which corresponds to a lock of dark blonde hair, or a pitch equal to 4 (HT4), which corresponds to a lock of brown hair. The notion of "pitch" is based on the classification of natural nuances, a tone separating each nuance from that which immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and the classification of natural shades is well known to professionals in the hair and published in the book "Science of hair treatments" Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed.Masson, pp.215 and 278. The heights are spread out from 1 (black) to 10 (light light blond), a unit corresponding to one tone, the higher the number and the hue is clear.15 EXAMPLES I. Example 1 - discoloration In this example, the concentrations in active ingredients are compared and the duration of treatment between a bleaching process according to the invention and conventional bleaching processes. A. Compositions tested The following oxidizing compositions are prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active ingredients. Composition Al Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 MA Ammonium hydroxide 0.7 MA Water Qs 100 Composition A2 Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 MA Potassium persulfate 6 MA Ammonium persulfate 5.9 MA Water Qsp 100 B. Electroluminescent source Light emitting source employed is a UVA LED lightnincure model LC-L5 365 nm, sold by Hamamatsu which is an instrument composed of several light emitting diodes (LEDs) whose wavelength is centered on 365 nm.
    [0031] The instrument is made up of enough light-emitting diodes that are properly installed to illuminate an area of 60 cm2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J / cm2.
    [0032] C. Procedure Each composition (A1) and (A2) is applied to locks of hair which are then irradiated for a period of 15 minutes at a fluence of 676 J / cm 2 or under an irradiance of 751 m Watts / cm 2.
    [0033] Then rinse the locks of hair. The results obtained are compared with those obtained with processes using "Nutrisse ultra brightening" and "Infinite Platinum" discoloration compositions according to the modes of use described in their instructions.
    [0034] D. Results 1) Comparison of concentrations of active agents It is found that the content of alkalizing agents is lower in the compositions according to the invention (A1) and (A2) compared to the composition "Nutrisse ultra lightening". In particular, the content of alkalinizing agents is 0.7% by weight of active ingredients in the composition (A1) and is zero in the composition (A2) relative to 3% by weight of active ingredients in the composition "Nutrisse ultra lightening ". It is also noted that the content of persulfates is lower in the composition (A2) than in the composition "Infinite Platinum", namely 11.9% by weight relative to 35% by weight. 30 2) Comparison of the duration of the treatment It is found that the discolouration of 6 pitches on HT4 brown hair with the process according to the invention after 15 minutes of irradiation while an equivalent discoloration is obtained after 50 minutes of exposure with the composition entitled "Infinite Platinium".
    [0035] II. Example 2 - Discoloration In this example, the shades obtained between bleaching processes according to the invention and conventional bleaching processes are compared. A. Tested Composition The composition A1 described in the previous example is used.
    [0036] B. Electroluminescent Source The light emitting source used is a UVA LED Lightnincure LC-L5 model 365 nm, sold by Hamamatsu which is an instrument composed of several light-emitting diodes (LEDs) of UV light whose wavelength is centered on 365 nm. The instrument is made up of enough light-emitting diodes that are properly installed to illuminate an area of 60 cm2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J / cm2.
    [0037] C. Procedure 1) Method 1 The composition (Al) is applied to strands of chestnut hair (HT4) which are then irradiated for a period of 15 minutes at a fluence of 341 J / cm 2. Then rinse the locks of hair. 2) Method 2 The composition (Al) is applied to strands of chestnut hair (HT4) which are then irradiated for a period of 15 minutes at a fluence of 460 J / cm 2. Then rinse the locks of hair. 3) Method 3 The composition entitled "Infinite Platinum" is applied to locks of brown hair (HT4) for a period of 40 minutes. Then rinse the locks of hair. 4) Method 4 The composition entitled "Infinite Platinum" is applied to locks of brown hair (HT4) for a period of 50 minutes. Then rinse the locks of hair. D. Results - Comparison of Shades It is found that the bleaching processes according to the invention (Methods 1 and 2) lead to a brightening more respectful of the natural pitch of the hair without leading to a yellow / orange lightening background. .
    [0038] The following table gives the clarifications obtained with methods 1 to 4: The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.
    [0039] In this system L * a * b *, the three parameters denote respectively the intensity of the color (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. In this table, the colorimetric parameters L *, a * and b * are given for strands of virgin hair (HT4) and strands of hair treated with the methods according to the prior art (Processes 3 and 4) and the methods according to the invention (Methods 1 and 2). In addition, the values Aa * and Ab * are respectively calculated between a *, once the streaks are discolored, and ao * for the virgin strands, and between b *, once the streaks are discolored, and bo * for the strands.
    [0040] The table shows that the clarifications obtained with the methods according to the invention are closer to the natural pitch since the components a * and b * vary less significantly than for the processes according to the prior art (Processes 3 and 4 ) in relation to the values of the components a * and b * of the brown hair. L * a * b * Aa * Ab * Chest strands 21.1 3.08 3.14 - - HT4 (untreated) Method 3 50.34 10.56 31.4 7.48 28.26 Process 1 51.42 8.4 21.19 5.32 18.05 (invention) Method 4 54.72 11.19 30.28 8.11 27.14 Process 2 54.76 7.46 19.57 4.38 16.43 Thus, it is found that the values of a * and b * obtained with the processes according to the invention (Processes 1 and 2) are less distant from the initial value ao * and bo * for the HT4 virgin wicks than for the processes according to the prior art. Therefore, the streaks discolored with methods 3 and 4 are redder (a *) and more yellow (b *) than the processes according to the invention. III. Example 3 - Discoloration In this example, a discoloration process according to the invention is carried out comprising a step of irradiation with UV-Visible radiation at a wavelength of 385 nm and a wavelength of 405 nm. nm to two different fluence ranges. A. Compositions tested The composition A1 described in the previous examples is used. B. Light Source Bl 385 nm light source A 385 nm Lightnincure LCL5 UVA LED lightbar is used, sold by Hamamatsu which is an instrument composed of several UV light-emitting diodes (LEDs) with a centered wavelength. on 385 nm. The instrument is made up of enough light-emitting diodes that are properly installed to illuminate an area of 60 cm2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J / cm2.
    [0041] B2. Light source at 405 nm A blue LED ramp is used, constructed to consist of several LEDs with UV light at a wavelength centered at 405 nm. The instrument is made up of enough light-emitting diodes that are adequately installed to illuminate an area of 60 cm2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J / cm235 C. Procedure Cl. Procedure - light source at 385 nm A wick is available of chestnut hair having a pitch HT4 in a gutter which is intended to be then placed under the UVA LED ramp and ensures that the wick is properly located in the irradiation zone. The UVA LED ramp is preheated for a period of one minute. The composition (Al) is applied to locks of chestnut hair having an HT4 pitch, at a rate of 20 grams per 0.5 gram of lock. Place the gutter under the ramp, making sure to center it and adjust the height of the gutter with respect to the light source at a distance of one centimeter (Z = 1 cm). The lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 360 J / cm 2 and a wavelength of 385 nanometers for five minutes and then the wick is turned over to irradiate the second side for five minutes.
    [0042] Rinse and wash the wick with shampoo. C2. Operating procedure - light source at 405 nm A lock of chestnut hair with an HT4 pitch is placed in a gutter which is then to be placed under the Blue LED beam and care is taken to ensure that the wick is correctly located in the area. irradiation. The Blue LED ramp is preheated for a period of one minute.
    [0043] The composition (Al) is applied to locks of chestnut hair having an HT4 pitch, at a rate of 20 grams per 0.5 gram of lock.
    [0044] Place the gutter under the ramp, making sure to center it and adjust the height of the gutter with respect to the light source at a distance of one centimeter (Z = 1 cm). The lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 480 J / cm 2 and a wavelength of 405 nanometers for 20 minutes and then the wick is turned over to irradiate the second side for 20 minutes. Rinse and wash the wick with shampoo. C3. Operating procedure - light source at 405 nm A lock of chestnut hair with an HT4 pitch is placed in a gutter which is then to be placed under the Blue LED beam and care is taken to ensure that the wick is correctly located in the area. irradiation.
    [0045] The Blue LED ramp is preheated for a period of one minute. The composition (A1) is applied to locks of chestnut hair having an HT4 pitch of 20 grams per 0.5 grams of lock.
    [0046] Place the gutter under the ramp, making sure to center it and adjust the height of the gutter with respect to the light source at a distance of one centimeter (Z = 1 cm). The lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 1440 J / cm 2 and a wavelength greater than 405 nanometers for 60 minutes and then the wick is turned over to irradiate the second side for 60 minutes. Rinse and wash the wick with shampoo. The data of the irradiation steps are indicated below: Irradiance Fluence Apparatus Irradiation time LED UVA ramp 385 nm 1200 mW / cm2 720 J / cm2 2x5 minutes (Z = 1 cm) LED UVA ramp 405 nm 400 W / cm2 960 J / cm2 2x20 minutes (Z = 1 cm) LED UVA ramp 400 W / cm2 2880 J / cm2 2x60 greater than 405 nm minutes (Z = 1 cm) D. Results - comparison of shades The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter. In this system L * a * b *, the three parameters denote respectively the intensity of the color (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. In this table, the colorimetric parameters L *, a * and b * are given for untreated locks of hair (HT4) and locks of hair treated with the methods according to the invention. L * a * b * Chest strands HT4 (non treated 20,12 3 3,07) Method Cl (385 nm) 59,54 10,4 24,25 Process C2 (405 nm) 50,27 10,65 22,60 Process C3 (405 nm) 84.66 3.72 16.96 It can be seen that the process according to the invention makes it possible to effectively decolorize at wavelengths of 385 nm and 405 nm at different fluences.
    [0047] IV. Study of the light source In this example, a method according to the invention is implemented comprising an irradiation step carried out from a light-emitting source. B. Tested Compositions The following oxidizing composition is prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight as they stand. Composition Al Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 MA Ammonium hydroxide 0.7 MA Water Qsp 100 B. Light source A UVA LED lightnincure model LC-L5 365 nm is available, sold by Hamamatsu as a light-emitting source . The instrument consists of several light emitting diodes (LEDs) of UV light emitting UVA rays with a wavelength of 365 nm.
    [0048] C. Procedure A strand of dark blonde hair with an HT6 pitch is placed in a gutter which is then to be placed under the UVA LED ramp and care is taken to ensure that the wick is properly located in the irradiation zone. . The UVA LED ramp is preheated for a period of one minute.
    [0049] The composition (Al) is applied to locks of dark blonde hair having an HT6 pitch of 20 grams per 0.5 grams of lock. Place the gutter under the ramp, making sure to center it and adjust the height of the gutter with respect to the light source at a distance of six centimeters (Z = 6 cm). The strand of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 36 J / cm 2 and a wavelength centered around 365 nanometers for two minutes, rinsed and the wick is then washed with shampoo.
    [0050] D. Results The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Data Color SF 600X colorimeter. In this system L * a * b *, the three parameters denote respectively the intensity of the color (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. In this table below, the L *, a * and b * colorimetric parameters are given for untreated strands of HT6 hair and locks of hair treated according to the process according to the invention (process C 1). The table also gives the result of the rise (or variation) of the DE * color which was calculated from the values of L * a * b * according to the following equation (i): DE * = V (L * * 2 + (a * - ao *) 2 + (b * - bo *) 2 In equation (i), L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on strands of HT6 hair after staining according to method Cl, and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on locks of unstained HT6 hair. The higher the value of DE *, the better the rise or variation of the color.
    [0051] HT6 31.46 7.44 13.26 - untreated Process Cl 38.63 9.88 19.35 9.75 It can be seen that the process according to the invention makes it possible to lead to a lightening with a significantly short irradiation time.
    [0052] Therefore, it is found that the method according to the invention using an electroluminescent technology is effective.
    [0053] V. Staining In this example, a dyeing process according to the invention comprising a step of applying a composition containing an oxidation base and a coupler in the presence of an oxidizing agent and a step of irradiation with a method comprising a step of applying a composition containing the oxidation base and the coupler and an irradiating step.
    [0054] A. Tested Compositions The following dye compositions are prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active ingredients. Composition B 1-methyl-2,5- 0,244 MA diaminobenzene 1,3-dihydroxybenzene 0,22 MA Water Qsp 100 B. Light emitting source The light emitting source used is a UVA LED lightnincure model LC-L5 365 nm, sold by Hamamatsu which is an instrument composed of several light-emitting diodes (LEDs) of UV light whose wavelength is centered on 365 nm.
    [0055] C. Procedure 1) Staining process (in the absence of oxidizing agent) The composition (B) is applied to strands of natural gray hair at 90% white, at a rate of 5 grams of composition per 1 gram of wick. . The wick is placed perpendicular to the UVA ramp at a distance of 1 cm and a portion of the wick is irradiated for a period of 10 minutes at a fluence of 676 J / cm 2. We rinse the whole wick and then apply a shampoo. 2) Coloring Process According to the Invention The composition (B) is mixed with an oxidizing composition with 20 volumes of hydrogen peroxide (6% in H2O2) in a 1/1 weight ratio. The composition resulting from this mixture is applied to locks of natural gray hair at 90% white, at the rate of 10 grams of composition per 1 gram of lock. The wick is placed perpendicular to the UVA ramp at a distance of 1 cm and a portion of the wick is irradiated for a period of 10 minutes at a fluence of 676 J / cm 2. We rinse the whole wick and then apply a shampoo.
    [0056] D. Results It is found that irradiation with UVA promotes coupling with or without an oxidizing agent.
    权利要求:
    Claims (14)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. A process for bleaching or staining keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising: (i) a step of applying to said fibers a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) a step of irradiating said fibers with UV-Visible radiation having a wavelength of from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence of from 1 to 5000 J / cm 2, after application of said composition; (iii) when the process is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, then said process also uses one or more oxidation dyes.
    [0002]
    2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the irradiation step is carried out by means of one or more light sources, more particularly of one or more electroluminescent sources chosen from light emitting diodes (LEDs). or organoluminescent (OLED).
    [0003]
    3. A process for bleaching or staining keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair comprising: (i) a step of applying to said fibers a composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) a step of irradiating the keratinous fibers with one or more diodes after application of said composition, when the process is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, then said process also uses one or more oxidation dyes.
    [0004]
    4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the keratinous fibers, once treated with the oxidizing composition, are irradiated for a period of less than 60 minutes, in particular for a period of less than 20 minutes, and more preferably for a period ranging from 1 to 15 minutes.
    [0005]
    5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or persalts.
    [0006]
    6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidation dyes are chosen from oxidation bases and optionally couplers and preferably comprise at least one oxidation base and at least one coupler.
    [0007]
    7. Process according to claim 6, characterized in that the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts and in particular from paraphenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ((3-hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 1-methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, para-aminophenol, 1-hydroxyethyl -4,5-diamino pyrazole, 2,3-diaminodihydroxypyrazolone dimethosulfonate, 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine and their addition salts and mixtures thereof.
    [0008]
    8. Process according to claim 6, characterized in that the couplers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts, and in particular from resorcinol. 2-methyl-resorcinol, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methyl-phenol, 2-amino-4- (B-hydroxyethylamino) -methoxybenzene, 5-N - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-methyl-phenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 1-B-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene dihydrochloride, 3-amino-phenol, 1-B-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-dihydrochloride diaminobenzene, their addition salts and mixtures thereof.
    [0009]
    9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains one or more basifying agents.
    [0010]
    10. Process according to claim 9, characterized in that the basifying agent is chosen from ammonia, organic amines, mineral bases and mixtures thereof.
    [0011]
    11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition has no absorption peak in the wavelength range used for the irradiation step.
    [0012]
    12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the UV-Visible radiation has a wavelength ranging from 350 to 450 nm, preferably from 365 to 405 nm, in particular a wavelength of 365. nm, 385 nm or 405 nm (± 10 nanometers).
    [0013]
    13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the UV-Visible radiation has a fluence ranging from 50 to 2000 J / cm 2, particularly from 100 to 2000 and more particularly from 200 to 800 J / cm 2.
    [0014]
    14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) is rinsed after the step of irradiating the keratinous fibers.
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    FR2739554A1|1997-04-11|COMPOSITION FOR OXIDATION DYEING OF KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING 2-AMINO 3-HYDROXY PYRIDINE AND AN OXIDATION BASE, AND DYEING METHOD
    FR2730925A1|1996-08-30|KERATINIC FIBER OXIDATION DYE COMPOSITION AND DYEING METHOD USING THE SAME
    FR3020944A1|2015-11-20|COMPOSITION FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING A PARTICULAR IMIDAZOLE COUPLER AND AN OXIDATION BASE
    FR2739025A1|1997-03-28|KERATIN FIBER OXIDATION DYEING COMPOSITION AND DYEING METHOD USING THE SAME
    FR3059233B1|2019-07-26|TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING 12-HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, ORGANIC AMINE, AND COLOR
    FR3037239A1|2016-12-16|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING TITANIUM SALT, OXIDATION COLOR, AND INTERMEDIATE RINSE
    FR2730922A1|1996-08-30|COMPOSITION FOR OXIDATION DYEING OF KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO OXIDATION BASES AND AN INDOLIC COUPLER, AND DYEING METHOD
    FR2940056A1|2010-06-25|Coloring keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises applying on the fibers a composition comprising e.g. surfactants, cosmetic composition comprising e.g. direct dyes and composition comprising oxidizing agent
    FR3024357A1|2016-02-05|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AMPS® COPOLYMER AND OXIDATION COLORING PRECURSOR AND / OR DIRECT COLOR
    FR3075608A1|2019-06-28|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 25% BY WEIGHT OF FATTY ACIDS AND AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC ALKALINE AMINO AGENT
    FR3024359A1|2016-02-05|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AMPS® COPOLYMER, MODIFIED OR UN-MODIFIED STARCH, AND OXIDATION COLORANT PRECURSOR
    FR2968204A1|2012-06-08|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION COLORING PRECURSOR, AN ETHYLENE OXIDE POLYCONDENSATE AND PROPYLENE OXIDE AND A CATIONIC POLYMER OF LOAD DENSITY UP TO 4 MEQ / G
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    JP6782637B2|2020-11-11|
    MX358580B|2018-08-27|
    EP3137171A1|2017-03-08|
    BR112016023954B1|2020-11-17|
    RU2739918C1|2020-12-29|
    US9895299B2|2018-02-20|
    US20170042776A1|2017-02-16|
    FR3020569B1|2017-09-15|
    KR20160144353A|2016-12-16|
    MX2016013673A|2017-01-23|
    CA2941337A1|2015-11-05|
    CN106456491A|2017-02-22|
    KR102325786B1|2021-11-12|
    ES2733174T3|2019-11-27|
    CN106456491B|2020-01-10|
    JP2017514788A|2017-06-08|
    EP3137171B1|2019-05-22|
    BR112016023954A2|2017-08-15|
    WO2015165949A1|2015-11-05|
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    法律状态:
    2015-04-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2015-11-06| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20151106 |
    2016-03-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-03-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-03-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2019-03-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-03-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2022-01-07| ST| Notification of lapse|Effective date: 20211205 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1453963A|FR3020569B1|2014-04-30|2014-04-30|PROCESS FOR DECOLORING OR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS USING AN OXIDIZING COMPOSITION AND UV-VISIBLE RADIATION|FR1453963A| FR3020569B1|2014-04-30|2014-04-30|PROCESS FOR DECOLORING OR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS USING AN OXIDIZING COMPOSITION AND UV-VISIBLE RADIATION|
    ES15721630T| ES2733174T3|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Procedure for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibers using UV-visible radiation|
    EP15721630.0A| EP3137171B1|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using a uv-visible radiation|
    JP2016556297A| JP6782637B2|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Methods for Decolorizing or Staining Keratin Fibers Using Oxidizing Compositions and UV Visible Radiation|
    US15/306,778| US9895299B2|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using an oxidizing composition and UV-visible radiation|
    CA2941337A| CA2941337A1|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using an oxidizing composition and uv-visible radiation|
    CN201580022682.9A| CN106456491B|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using an oxidizing composition and UV-visible radiation|
    PCT/EP2015/059312| WO2015165949A1|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using an oxidizing composition and uv-visible radiation|
    BR112016023954-7A| BR112016023954B1|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibers using an oxidizing composition and UV-visible radiation|
    MX2016013673A| MX358580B|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using an oxidizing composition and uv-visible radiation.|
    KR1020167024810A| KR102325786B1|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres using an oxidizing composition and uv-visible radiation|
    RU2016146774A| RU2739918C1|2014-04-30|2015-04-29|Method of decolouring or dying keratin fibers using an oxidative composition and uv-visible radiation|
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